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Алек Morse

Дамские наряды в нашем сериале о Холмсе/What Victorian ladies wear in Russian Sherlock Holmes series

И хотя сегодня не 8 марта, этот пост я решил посвятить милым дамам. Недавно на одном из шерлокианских форумов развернулась активная дискуссия о викторианской моде - в основном вокруг женщин и их платьев. До сих пор я молчал (я не эксперт по платьям), но тут вспомнил, что три года назад мне удалось проинтервьюировать посредством электронной почты Лизу Эштон, преподавательницу одного из американских колледжей и специалиста по костюмам: я расспросил её о женских костюмах в ленфильмовском сериале про Шерлока Холмса. Она любезно согласилась на публикацию своих ответов (текст представляет собой компиляцию из ответов, данных в нескольких письмах).

- сначала рисунок Сиднея Пейджета, первого иллюстратора рассказов о Шерлоке Холмсе, мизансцена из "Пёстрой ленты"


- кадр из нашего фильма, Элен Стонер (Мария Соломина) ожидает приёма у Шерлока Холмса:
Maria Solomina as Helen Stoner in film "Sherlock Holmes and Doctor Watson" (USSR, LenFilm studio, 1979)

 

Баранья нога, или что носили викторианские дамы в ленфильмовском «Шерлоке Холмсе»

Заметки костюмера

Автор: Лиза ЭШТОН, участник Международной Гильдии костюмеров, США

 

Привет, Алекс

 

…Как вы наверняка помните из моего первого письма, я поймала русский сериал о Шерлоке Холмсе на местном кабельном телеканале ("MHZ International TV), нам удалось записать его, и затем мы с удовольствием пересматривали его много-много раз. Я большая поклонница рассказов о Шерлоке Холмсе, но не фильмов, за редким их исключением. Откровенно говоря, мне совсем не нравится Джереми Бретт, он играл Холмса в сериале ББС (на самом деле – телекомпании «Гранада», - прим. alek-morse) в 80 и 90-е годы. У меня было чувство, что Бретт сделал своего героя слишком наглым и высокомерным, и довольно шаржированным. У Василия Ливанова получился человечный и очень сердечный Холмс. В сериале с Джереми Бреттом Ватсон – тупой исполнитель, но в русском сериале Холмс воспринимает его серьёзно и, совершенно очевидно, признаёт равным себе.

 

Костюмы в русском сериале потрясающие, в первую очередь потому, что в них нет ничего кричащего, а актёры как будто в них родились.

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Recently, we have an active discussion about Victorian fashion on a 221b.borda.ru Sherlockian forum, mostly around women and their dresses. So far I have said nothing (I'm not an expert on dresses), but then I remembered that three years ago, I did an interview via e-mail with Lisa Ashton, a teacher at US’s college and professional Costume Designer: I asked her about the women's costumes in the LenFilm studio’s Sherlock Holmes series. She has kindly agreed to publish their responses (this text is a compilation of answers given in several letters).

 

A Leg-of-Mutton, or What Victorian ladies wear in Russian Sherlock Holmes series

Notes by a Costumer

Author: Lisa ASHTON, a Costumer (SF, Fantasy, Historical costumes) associated with the International Costumer's Guild (ICG). Washington DC, USA

 

Hi Alex--

…As you read in my original email, I got the Sherlock Holmes series on a local access channel ("MHZ International TV) and we were lucky enough to be able to record them and watch them many more times. I am a huge fan of all the Sherlock Holmes books; NOT a fan of most of the films, with few exceptions. I really hated Jeremy Brett, who played Holmes for the BBC back in the 80's and 90's. I felt that he made the Holmes character too snotty and arrogant, just too exaggerated. Vasily Livanov gave Holmes humanity and had a heart. In the Jeremy Brett series, Watson was just a stupid sidekick; but in the Russian series, Holmes took him seriously and was clearly very fond of him.

 

 

 

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The costumes in the Russian series are perfect, for the very simple reason that they are not flashy or "costume-y", but the actors really "inhabit" their clothes. Plus they also got the late Victorian details correct--even though they never tell you what year it actually is, I could easily tell from the skirts and the sleeves of the ladies, especially. Men's clothes haven't really changed much in 150 years, but women's clothes have, and they were all right. Mrs. Hudson looked the matronly widow that she was. And they DO change a little, become a bit more modern, with the last film, that takes place just before World War I, where Holmes tricks a German spy and captures him. It was easy to tell that this took place after about 1910.

 

The fact that the cinematography is rather dark, I think adds to the whole atmosphere.


Let me address a few of the photos showing female costumes that you included.

The Speckled Band--Miss Stoner

This was always one of my favorite stories from reading the original books when I was about 12 years old.

What she is wearing is very traditional Victorian mourning, especially with the hat and veil. The slightly puffy sleeve caps put it in the late 1880's or early 1890' (probably the early 1890's, since we can deduce that her father would not have allowed her to buy newer fashionable clothing, and she was wearing dresses that were several years old and not the current fashion of that time). In the late 1880's/early 1890's the sleeve caps became slightly puffy again, before they went really crazy and became the big "leg-of-mutton" sleeves in the mid 1890's to late 1890's. In addition, she is clearly not wearing a bustle, so that puts it later than the mid-1880's when bustles were still popular.

The bustle was a framework shape at the rear of the dress or skirt that defined the shape.  In America, there were several recognized "Bustle Periods" for dresses, and knowing that makes it easier to figure out the dates of outfits.  When I was looking at Ms. Stoner's dress, I essentially saying: It's later than the bustle period, so that could easily put it into the 1890's, but the sleeves aren't large, so it was earlier in the decade.  In Victorian times, there were very strict rules for "mourning" dresses, as far as colors (brown, black, dark navy blue, dark gray, very little decoration and it all had to be in dark colors) and styles, and wearing veils.  And it all had to do with how long ago the death was--we know that Ms. Stoner had just lost her sister, so she would be wearing all black, since the death was recent.  For widows, after 6 or 12 months they were allowed to wear slightly lighter colors, but no bright colors, like red or yellow.


The highly tailored bodice was pretty much a mainstay after about 1875.

I don't think that the film makers ever meant any or all episodes to be any particular year, but the costumes and sets definitely evoke late Victorian England.

Mrs. Stapleton from "Hound of the Baskerville" shows the same puffy sleeve caps as the early 1890's, as well as the typical Victoria collar with the stand-up lace on the edge, which frames the face. The hairstyle in that one, though, almost puts it around the 1870's, so they are definitely mixing and matching elements of styles there. That's okay though, because the main impression is clearly communicated--"This is the late Victoria period".

The photo of Laura Lyons from "Hound of the Baskervilles" doesn't clearly fit into the period, with it's smooth clever caps on the dress, and the long elaborate vest, with its almost Eastern/Asian dynamics. It clearly says about her "This is a character with very much her own sense of style, and doesn't mind standing out from the rest". Still, the long line of closely spaced front buttons of the dress and the decorated collar fit not the period.

 

Mary Morstan wears a very typically late Victorian "romantic" blouse with lots of lace and a high collar. With her hair piled up and the long "V" yoke on the blouse, this is what we think of as Victorian, so it will resonate with viewers.

Lisa Ashton, a Costumer (SF, Fantasy, Historical costumes) associated with the International Costumer's Guild (ICG).